As the capital of one of the world’s most dynamic economies, the bold modernity of Beijing (??, b?ij?ng) should take nobody by surprise. And yet it’s hard not to be overawed by the sheer dynamism of this brash, gaudy, elegant, charming, filthy and historic city: whether partying to punk in a club, admiring the bizarre modern architecture spiking the skyline, or pushing your way through the bustling, neon-soaked streets, Beijing is never, ever dull. Yet the city remains firmly rooted in the past: for the last seven hundred years, much of the drama of China’s history has been played out here, a place that saw the emperors enthroned at the centre of the Chinese universe inside the Forbidden City, and later witnessed the chaos of the early communist years. Though Beijing has been transformed over the last two decades to such an extent that it is barely recognizable, it still remains – spiritually and geographically – the buzzing heart of the nation.