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E-book Activist Biology : The National Museum, Politics, and Nation Building in Brazil
With the sun straight overhead, the vacationers point their car toward the town of Barreirinhas, not far from the promised paradise of Brazil’s Lençóis Maranhenses, a national park since 1981. The road is nearly deserted, the land-scape dotted by only a few villages, some scattered adobe houses, and a bar here and there. Large expanses of land have been burned off to give way to subsis-tence farming.Their rental car starts acting up, and the tourists scramble for their guide-book, where they locate the lone gas station along the 100-mile stretch of road between them and the park. Worried they’ll find themselves stuck in the mid-dle of nowhere, the tourists press on—and breathe a heavy sigh of relief when they reach their unplanned stop. Their happiness, however, is short-lived. The gas station proves as forsaken as the rest of the area, and the attendants know nothing more than how to fill a tank.A native bird hangs in a locked cage outside a humble house nearby. Three men have just finished their lunch and throw what little is left to two squalid mutts, followed eagerly by some pigs and a chicken. One of the men goes back o building a birdcage. A TV set hooked up to a satellite dish is playing a movie that stars Denzel Washington. The nearest public phone is almost nine miles away. Luckily, one of the travelers’ cell phones picks up a signal and comes back to life, so they call the rental agency. Help will arrive in two hours.While they wait, the tourists amble over to the nearby house, where letter-ing painted on an outside wall advertises a bar inside. It’s closed, but the next-door neighbor is selling beverages and cookies. There’s a pool table and some chairs on the porch. The family has an old jalopy, likely a sign of great prosper-ity in these parts. Every once in a while, dogs and chickens at their heels, a few curious children scurry in and out of the house to peer at the strangers. One of the tourists asks if there’s a restroom she can use. Yes, around back. As she crosses the room, she sees men, women, and children crowded around another TV. The bathroom is outside, surrounded by chickens, pigs, and dogs. There’s a porcelain toilet but it doesn’t flush; a big bucket of dingy water and a small ba-sin make up for it.
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