As the capital of one of the world’s most dynamic economies, the bold modernity of Beijing (??, b?ij?ng) should take nobody by surprise. And yet it’s hard not to be overawed by the sheer dynamism of this brash, gaudy, elegant, charming, filthy and historic city: whether partying to punk in a club, admiring the bizarre modern architecture spiking the skyline, or pushing your way through the …