Sitting in the shadow of the north wall of the ruined caravan house (karavanatun) at Arai-Bazarǰuł on a clear day in summer, one can see four mountain peaks. To the west above Aragats, the tallest mountain in the Republic of Armenia, clouds catch and gather, threatening to descend and change the day from sun to hail in minutes. To the northeast, the stooping shoulder of Tełenis hefts a load …