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E-book Medicine and Memory in Tibet : Amchi Physicians in an Age of Reform
Under a clear autumn sky, Amchi Yonten Tsering and I were chat-ting in his Shigatse courtyard in the morning sun when the first patient of the day knocked on the front door. An elderly monk was let inside, accompanied by a younger colleague. We exchanged a few words and found out they were from nearby Tashilhunpo Monastery, the seat of the reincarnated line of the Panchen Lama and today the home to some four hundred monks. The sixty-seven-year-old doctor Yonten Tsering suggested going inside the house to “look at illness” (natsa taya), his way of referring to a medical consultation. “What ails you?“ he asked the monk, by then seated in the family living room.“My heart [nying]. I am told I have high blood pressure [trakshé tobo].”The doctor reached for his manual sphygmomanometer to take the monk’s blood pressure. He noted the result in his case records before going on to feel the patient’s pulse on both wrists with three fingers at the tsön, ken, and chak points, pressing differently over the radial arteries on each. This was one of my favorite moments in consultations: when practi-tioners seemingly disappeared into themselves and their patient, picking up subtle but sure signs from within the body that elude those untrained in their recognition and interpretation. Yonten Tsering inspected the monk’s eyes and tongue, then pressed on the crown of his head, a location used to est for pains related to the wind nyépa (or force) in the body. Yonten Tsering interpreted the monk’s evident discomfort at this as a critical sign of the underlying condition. After a few more questions, the resultant diagnosis voiced to the patient was lungné, a “wind disorder.” “But,” the doctor assured him, “it is not too bad, and the medicines will help you.” He instructed the monk to continue with the Tibetan medicines he was already taking, adding to those three from the amchi’s own stock. These, he explained, should be taken for forty-five days and be complemented with the external therapy of hormen.
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