Text
E-book Fashion, Society and the First World War : International Perspectives
h e war altered the business of fashion on a national and international scale. Th e authors writing in this volume argue that the changes that occurred in the fashionable silhouette, while set in motion in the 1910s, were fi xed into place during the war. Th eir essays highlight how the war restructured the international couture industry—not by decentering the axis away from Paris, but by fi nding a new economic balance with the US. “Problems” with the supposed reconfi gurations of gender, which came to a fore in the interwar period, were rooted in new wartime fashion, workwear, and uniforms for men and for women. Fashion magazines, far from ceasing publication during the war, as some historians have suggested, honed their discourse during the war in order to guide consumers and address societal anxiety around new fashion practices. Read together, the essays in this volume broaden our understanding of the international networks of wartime fashion trade and dress practices, while also signifi cantly adding to our knowledge of how fashion operated on national levels during a period of complex political alliances. h e papers weave fascinating connections between one another and the countries they address, which include France and its colonies, the US, Great Britain, Italy, Belgium, the Netherlands, Germany, and Hungary. Many of these countries opposed each other during the war, while others remained neutral. Some, like Belgium, were occupied, their economy at a standstill and their population reliant on foreign aid; others, like the US and the Netherlands, operated more or less “normally” throughout the war, whether as neutral parties or not. Although the essays in this volume all address how Western nations and their colonies responded to the war (France’s colonies in Africa are included in Manuel Charpy’s essay on secondhand clothing networks in Chapter 14), it should not be forgotten that the First World War was a total war, involving the Middle East and Japan. It would be fascinating to add to this fi rst attempt to address Western fashion practices during the First World War with further discussions of fashion industries and practices in Asia, Africa, and the Middle East between 1914 and 1919. While this book addresses fashion—an area seemingly far removed from the horrors of the war—the wounds of this massive confl ict, which mobilized more than 65 million soldiers in more than thirty nations are an integral part of our authors’ narratives.
Tidak tersedia versi lain